(Catwalking) Backstage at a previous Richard Nicoll show After conducting its first highly scientific London Fashion Week census, The Times is bursting with details about the shows that start tomorrow. You¹ll have to wait until the models step on to the catwalk for the visual shape of things to come. In the meantime, we have the scoop on everything from the phrases our 15 willing designers use too much (³James, off the fabrics!² ‹ Heikki Salonen to his dog ‹ may well be our favourite), to whether they pay their models in sterling or clothes. Now that we know what they¹ve been eating, our understanding of their aesthetic vision has deepened considerably. Kinder Aggugini is an urbane Italian sustained by Oreo cookies, while the increasingly slender Julien Macdonald survives the long days on calorie-controlled micro-portions delivered directly to his door. Other mysteries we uncovered: Christopher Kane, one of the biggest names on the schedule, receives the fewest intern requests. Holly Fulton, on the other hand, could do with accepting some of the 70 or so work experience applications she has received over the past few months. Despite her rapid ascent, the young Scot only has two (unpaid) studio employees ‹ and that includes herself. The smoky eye question polarised views, but all agreed that earthy colours would be big next winter. If you want to get ahead, bypass pastels and rediscover forest green, terracotta and black. The clothes may sound gloomy, however the surroundings are glorious. London Fashion Week¹s current home is Somerset House. A spectacular neo-classical mansion overlooking the Thames, whose Palladian lines form the backdrop to some of our designers¹ shows. Our designer panel aren¹t all taking advantage of the host space, of course. This is London, where individuality reigns, and Richard Nicoll wants to see the Queen on his front row. The designers: Christopher Kane: Hot young thing chosen by Donatella Versace to revive the Versus line. Matthew Williamson: Magician of Ibizan colour and celebrity-friendly shapes. Julien Macdonald: Not dissimilar to Cavalli in tan colour and design aesthetic. Pringle: Clare Waight Keller mixes minimalism with earthy, Scottish vistas. Richard Nicoll: Part of the Saint Martins alumni, he carries greatness on his Aussie-raised shoulders. Roksanda Ilincic: A striking Serbian known for her elegant silk cocktail dresses. Daks: Filippo Scuffi is giving English tailoring a slick Italian gloss. Peter Pilotto: Sounds like one person, actually a design duo who make sharp prints on tailored perfection. Kinder: A new arrival at LFW but has created theatrical luxury for years. Mark Fast: Knits scarily scant dresses but is happy to show them on curvier models. Joanne Sykes: Her mainstay is cool, sleek, silk separates: clothes you¹d give a limb for. Mary Katrantzou: Her visual prints put antique fragrance bottles on the fashion map. Erdem: Exquisite colour and delicate texture for the lady who¹s in touch with her feminine side. Holly Fulton: Dynamic, fresh, sharp, modern - a designer for girls who like the Chrysler building. Heikki Salonen: The Swede is showing his simple, pared-down styles under the Fashion East umbrella. Louise Gray: A designer with a fantastic sense of fun who specialises in embroidery. Where will you be showing for LFW? "Portico Rooms, Somerset House." Louise Gray What is the hot shoe for winter? "I will mainly be using brogues in the show as I think they signify British style." DAKS What's your happiest moment during fashion week? "When the girls have done their last exit, that's when I know I can relax for a bit Then it's off to Milan for the Versus presentation, I can't relax fully until after that!" Christopher Kane How aware are you of casting healthy models for your show? "I make clothes for women and need girls to look like women. Anything else is unappealing." Kinder Aggugini What do you eat in the run-up to the shows? "Coconut juice hits the spot." Roksanda Ilincic Are the models paid in Sterling or clothes? "I wouldn't force my clothes on anyone!" Holly Fulton "All the models must be paid, the rules are clear. But when fees have been way over budget, I've twisted a few arms with cashmere..." Kinder Aggugini Choose one colour that sums up winter Terracottas: Sykes, Richard Nicoll, Holly Fulton, Mark Fast, Greens: Erdem, Pringle, Louise Gray, Heikki Salonen Darks: DAKS, Mary Katrantzou, Julien Macdonald, Christopher KaneLondon Fashion Week, by the designers
The biggest event in Britain's style calendar is kicking off tomorrow. We got the skinny from some of the key players
"Flower Cellars, Covent Garden." Richard Nicoll
"Selfridges' car park!" Peter Pilotto
"The McQueen crab claw is definitely one to make a statement." Mary Katrantzou
"I tend not to go for girls who are too skinny or young. Last year we worked with Daphne Self, who is 81. She is amazing and as energetic as they come." Joanna Sykes
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