Marie O'Riordan: My life on the fashion front row

Never mind the clothes – what’s the gossip? Former glossy magazine editor Marie O’Riordan on what it’s really like at the fashion collections

On one of my forays to the international fashion collections as a supposedly seasoned editor-in-chief (my fashion debut, for example, had been marked in The Times ten years earlier with a cartoon and accompanying caption: “Marie O’Riordan: more high street than high fashion. It looks nice, dear, but how does it wash?”), the members of my fashion team were clearly checking out what I would wear to my first Milan show that season. That morning, I opened the door of my hotel room to a stylist – and her face fell. Before “Hi”, she’d had time to give my outfit the once-over.

“What?” I said, panicking. “Is it the jacket? The shoes?”

She shook her head, stricken and mute, like a teenage girl whose mum has come to pick her up from a disco wearing a basque.

Finally, I followed her flicked, appalled glances downwards.

“My tights? But… I thought… fishnets were fashionable?”

Discreet shake of head, still stricken, but now rallying.

“Change,” she uttered finally.

Which, as a matter of principle, I refused to do. I was the boss, after all. But she was right. Of course.

The world of high fashion can be seen too easily as arcane, random and bizarre, but there’s a very good reason for the almost absurd over-focus on clothes and personal appearance during the biannual, multi-million-dollar extravaganza that is the collections, and this is because, beneath the celebrities, the ridiculously lavish parties, the concocted “news” stories and the million-pound perfume launches, the collections are in essence a trade show for an industry that is valued at £1.6 billion in retail terms. This means that people are actually working at these events, trying to make deals and outdo their competitors. And their business is fashion. So you can hardly expect to rock up on fashion’s very shopfloor looking only so-so, or so what, because it just seems unprofessional.

Believe me, you, too, would come to treasure your judgmental stylist who saves you from yourself. Because your colleagues and your competitors will bitch about you during the convenient 30-minute wait before each show, when you are sitting in the front row, under the lights, in the highest temple of fashion, among its most fervent and passionate adherents. And the first show of the first week, New York, naturally provides the best returns, because you haven’t seen many of the cast of about 60 recurring characters for some five months.

“She must have put on a stone! Coke bloat, definitely. Her PA told mine.”

“Jeez, is his whole face paralysed?”

“Work. Eyes. No question,” etc, etc.

Which might sound unedifying, even tawdry – but you should hear the second row, which is normally occupied by fashion directors and editors of lesser magazines. (Rule one at the collections: if you think you’re front row, never, ever accept a second-row seat; people will notice and you’ll sit there for ever more. Which led to one high priestess of fashion [second row] – sadly no longer with us – hovering by the front row at each show till the lights went down, when she would dive in beside us and wriggle her bottom along until she got her seat.) Of course, fashion directors always know more about fashion than editors-in-chief (who have a whole magazine to get out), and so the FDs’ critiques can have more edge. But then there’s the third row, typically comprising stylists who literally know the industry inside out, who get paid a pittance and stay in fleapit hotels miles from the FDs’ and eds’ five-star accommodation, and tolerate it because fashion is their vocation; and so on, right back to the fashion students standing at the back who try to steal the gifts left on the front-row seats.

Which might make you think the fashion world is a jungle, but the metaphor I always prefer is an exotic reef: breathtakingly beautiful, astonishing, almost silent and alien, populated by weirdly shaped, wonderful beings, by ugly rock-dwellers and a few octopuses, but also by multihued, ethereally delicate creatures who can exist only here. Normal human beings can only live temporarily here, artificially – like heterosexual men, for example, who stand out like, well, a frogman in flippers at a fashion show. It is another world, and if its denizens attack each other, or prey on lesser beings, or function as parasites, or occasionally cruise serenely overhead, like leviathans, appearing never to eat but taking everything in, it’s a milieu where you can spend ten years on the front row and never quite be accepted as an über-fashionista. Although, around my 14th collections, maybe 300 must-see shows later (an editor-in-chief never does the small ones), I noticed that, in the fashion bus afterwards, the FDs began obliquely to solicit my opinion on a more than usually directional Zac Posen show.

Meanwhile, the stylist who critiqued my fishnets now works in a pub. In Kent. After being promoted, she had a breakdown involving huge debts (shoes, coats) and alcohol. At one point, she was living in a hostel for the homeless, where she was visited by one person who works in fashion – and me. Fashion never cares for the ill, the weak, the old: it’s strictly about the beautiful.

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